Dis-moi ce que tu manges, je te dirai qui tu es

EAT | PARIS

FrenchieCollage_LO.jpg

2nd ARRONDISSEMENT

FRENCHIE BAR À VINS

Don’t let the no-reservations policy, hordes of tourists, raw bulbs and communal pub tables dissuade you (I actually love 3 of those attributes). Frenchie bar à vins does not disappoint. Go early or queue up to enjoy fabulous small plates and wine in a bustling convivial space. Monday – Sunday, 6.30PM – 11PM

6 rue du Nil 75002 Paris France

 
DarocoCollage_LO.jpg

2nd ARRONDISSEMENT

DAROCO

Located in the historic Galleries Vivienne (covered arcade built in 1923), the previous home of Jean-Paul Gautier’s flagship store now hosts a stylish yet warm Italian restaurant. I booked a table during fashion week for dinner with a side of people watching. Dining amongst the style obsessed (and possibly malnourished) did not inhibit me from enjoying a giant pizza. The Parma show (Parma Ham & Flore di latte) was so good I almost ate the whole thing. The charming waitress recommended a lovely red wine to pair with it. The food is typical Italian trattoria - a lovely evening and a good meal in a stylish setting. Mon-Sun 12noon-3pm, 7pm-12midnight

6 Rue Vivienne, 75002 Paris, France

12th ARRONDISSEMENT

CLOWN BAR

So before I went I had read in the NYtimes that this was a must, but too much praise makes me skeptical. I nabbed a reso (lunch was easier to come by) and I wasn’t disappointed. I was surprised at the small Belle Epoch setting and the quiet relaxed experience. We had 2 lovely salads one with beets and figs and one with heirloom tomatoes. Elegant dishes but not at all fussy. My favorite meal of that trip was the squid ink tempura sardines (that my friend ordered and I stole), a stunning if not alarming presentation of black coal fritters, but what a surprising delight. We also enjoyed the decadent pithivier - pâté en croûte with date puree —medium-rare duck and foie gras wrapped in flaky pastry. I read that Chef Sota Atsumi has now left, I will be watching to see if they can keep up the stellar work without him (and making a reso at his new “Maison”). Reservations recommended: 01.43.55.87.35

114 Rue Amelot, 75011 Paris, France

LeCaveDeL'InsoliteCollage_LO.jpg

11th ARRONDISSEMENT

LA CAVE DE L’INSOLITE

Bistronomic cuisine and natural wines in a cozy, rustic wine bar. We enjoyed a lovely dinner of inventive dishes paired with truly memorable wines (suggested by the staff). A delicious and soulful experience. Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations accepted:  01 53 36 08 33

30 Rue de la Folie Méricourt,75011 Paris, France

 

9th ARRONDISSEMENT

LE BON GEORGES

No it’s not a movie set, but a legit traditional Parisian bistro. Behind the vintage facade you can find well-prepared classic French fare. Open 7 days a week: 12–3, 7–11pm Reservations accepted: +33 1 48 78 40 30

45 Rue Saint-Georges, 75009 Paris, France

LeBonGeorgeCollage_LO.jpg
 

11th ARRONDISSEMENT

LE SERVAN

Manila-born Tatiana Levha, formerly at L’Arpège and L’Astrance, and her sister Katia run this laid-back, fresh feeling bistro. The menu changes daily, but expect market-fresh dishes with international influences in a bright monochromatic space. It’s been a few years now, but I’m simply dying to go back. Tues-Fri: 12:30pm-2:30pm, 7:30pm-11pm. Reservations recommended:  +33 1 55 28 51 82

32 Rue Saint-Maur, 75011 Paris, France

11th ARRONDISSEMENT

YARD BISTRO

Go for a lovely, affordable lunch in an industrial-farmhouse spot with tasty and inventive food. We enjoyed a fattoush salad with peaches and purslane, black mullet with cauliflower, almonds and yogurt, a house-made ravioli with fresh cheese and a lovely dry Rosé from Porquerolles (how did they know that was our next destination!?). Mon-Fri: 12-2pm, 7:30-10:30pm, Le weekend: 12:30-4:30pm. Reservations recommended: +33 1 40 09 70 30

6 Rue de Mont-Louis, 75011 Paris, France

YardCollage_LO.jpg

DINING OUT EN FRANCE

The French take their dining very seriously and the customs are ripe with land mines. So many rules!  Of course, you’re the customer and should get what you want, but I prefer to sit back and experience things the way they’re done differently in another place, it’s part of the magic of travel - learning about other cultures. I’ve also tried to be more open-minded and eat things I wouldn’t ordinarily. I’ve enjoyed some amazing dishes, just don’t translate what that was, ok? One thing to note is that many restaurants are closed Sunday and/or Monday. I try to plan ahead and make reservations for those nights.

Les Boulangeries

There are so many amazing bakeries in Paris, you could almost hit up 2-3 per day, not that I’ve done anything like that before…

  • Pain Pain

    Award-winning baguettes in a hip atmosphere. 88, rue des Martyrs – 75018 Paris

  • Du Pain et des Idées

    Years ago on a blustery morning, I was wandering near Canal St. Martin and discovered a 19th-century bakery. While the streets were empty, it was bustling. It felt like a magical bakery mirage. Many “best of” lists later, it’s now arguably one of the most famous bakeries in Paris. you will need to queue up, but it’s worth it.  34 Rue Yves Toudic, 75010 Paris

  • Au Petit Versailles du Marais

    Another seventeenth century-style gem of a bakery serving bread and pastries, coffee and tea. Helmed by Christian Vabret (creator of the Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie). Only had a chance to gobble some croissants, but perhaps we’ll make room for bread and patisseries next time, and there will be a next time. 27 rue François Miron75004 Paris

  • Ten Belles

    Delicious variety of bread and good coffee, order toast with butter and jam! 3 locations, 2 in the 10th, one in the 6th.

  • Ble Sucre

    The bakery that won my totally random and unofficial “best croissant of 2016”, it didn’t hurt that it was placed in my grubby hand straight from the oven! David Leibowitz touted the “deeply-dark homemade caramels with salted butter”, which I somehow missed, let’s just go back & get some of those, shall we? Closed Monday. 7 Rue Antoine Vollon, 75012 Paris

  • The French Bastards

    I was lucky to discover them when they first opened, now they have 3 locations. I dream about their Tarte Pommes Pistache, not to be missed. 27 rue François Miron 75004 Paris

  • Strohrer

    The oldest patisserie in Paris opened in 1730 that won my totally random and unofficial “best croissant of 2017”. Yet another belle époque jewel box filled with patisserie gems. Brave the crowds of Rue Montorguiel and grab yourself some yum. 51 Rue Montorgueil, 75002 Paris

Next

DRINK